Monday, October 29, 2007

cannabis oil...

This is sifted through a piece of nylon stocking or a very fine mesh screen. Many times the taste of the hashish is improved if the oils giving the marijuana its taste and smell are removed from the dust. This is accomplished by extracting it with alcohol in the stew-pot apparatus as described earlier. Further extraction of the compounds contributing to the taste and smell is accomplished by boiling in water. All solvent is removed from the dust first, as the fumes might present a fire hazard. The water is filtered from the dust and the process is repeated with fresh water until the water remains clear, indicating that all soluble substances have been leached from the cellulose material. The cannabis dust is thoroughly dried, and is then ready to be mixed with the oil. The mixing is facilitated by first heating the dust and oil and then working them together in a large mortar, or by kneading the mass with the hands. Thin, fiat, hand-pressed patties like those from Afghanistan may be fashioned, or one may mold clumps of “fingers” or round “temple balls” such as those found in Nepal. Flat sheets and blocks may be formed by pressing the mixture between two heated steel plates in a vise.

Thursday, October 25, 2007

from cannabidiol to THC

Metal pot of at least 2000 ml as hot oil bath for heating boiling flask.Thermometer for monitoring the oil bath temperature.Sparkless electric hotplate.Rheostat to control temperature of hotplate from outside the box.Ring stand and proper clamps for securing flask and condenser.Cottonseed oil.Acetic anhydride.Immersible water pump, bucket, and hoses for filling condenser.The principle of the refluxing operation is approximately the same as was used for
isomerizing the cannabidiol to THC with the kitchen apparatus (in italian: semi marijuana). The explosive and noxious nature of the acetic anhydride necessitates the use of the safety box. Although a glove box is unnecessary for the operations of extraction and isomerization using the kitchen method previously described, these steps may also be done in the box as an added measure of safety. The solution of acetic anhydride and cannabis oil is boiled in the round-bottom flask. The fumes rise into the icewater-cooled condenser, where they are condensed back into liquid, thus relieving the pressure created by boiling. The drops then fall back into the solution.

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

the most potent marijuana

The glass tube is spaced a bit above the emulsion layer; any ether/oil solution not removed will be recovered later. The ether/oil solution in the collection jug is saved. Another volume of fresh petroleum ether is added to the extraction by inverting, separating, and collecting the ether solution, which is added to the first ether/oil solution. This process is repeated until the ether layer remains clear after inverting. This indicates that the ether-soluble oil is totally extracted from the alcohol-and-water layer. No more than several ounces of the combined ether/oil solution is put in the stainless-steel pot, and the collection pan is placed in the colander. The apparatus is reassembled, as was done for the removal of the solvent from the oil after soxhleting. The rig is placed in the water bath and slowly heated to 140°F. After evaporating and collecting the ether (saved for future use), the stainless-steel pot with the oil is put into a boiling water bath for several minutes and stirred occasionally to remove any residual traces of solvent. The refined oil thus obtained is much superior to the oil obtained from the original alcohol extraction.

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

starting this cannabis blog...

The mixer dislodges the trichomes. Now add your materials - which should be leaf and / or bud, but no branches - on top of the water. Add lots more ice and top off with water. Now you're ready for blending. Using a hand mixer, blend 1 gallon kits for 10 minutes, 5 gallon kits for 15 minutes, and 20 gallon kits for 20 minutes. Then let them settle, 20 minutes for the 1 gallon, 30 minutes for the 5 gallon, and 45 minutes for the 20 gallon kit. This allows all the tiny heads you've dislodged from the plant matter to sink and fall through the screens. Best results can only be achieved by ensuring there's still ice left when you reach this point. After the brew is allowed to settle, you can start to pull the bags, one by one. First, remove the 220U bag that's holding all the plant matter. Immediately turn it inside out, dispose of the material, and clean the bag with cold water. This is the best way to clean and preserve your Bubblebags. Now you're ready to pull the bags holding the real booty. The material from the next bag, the 190U, may contain some contaminant, but it is still good hash. Remove it from the screen and place it on its corresponding pressing screen, included in the kit, for the water-removal process. Remove the material that's been captured in each of the other bags, the 160U, the 73U, the 45U, and finally, the 25U. Place the material on separate pressing screens provided. Each grade will have unique qualities. To remove most of the remaining water, use a rolling pin. Place the pressing screen on a towel and place another towel on top of it. Then lightly press with the rolling pin. As with buds, drying the resin should not be rushed. "This is where many people make a mistake," says Bubbleman. "They take the final product that's only been mildly pressed and press it in their fingers while it's still wet, resulting in moldy bubble hash in most every case." Using the 25U pressing screen removes most but not all of the water. Take the wet patties and break them up into fine powder over a piece of thick cardboard. This will pull all the water out over the course of a few days, leaving you with a final product that is bone-dry and ready to be stored. In an unpressed state, your bubble hash will smoke like a bowl of trichomes; pressing and curing it will enhance taste and potency even further.